Friday, December 20, 2013

East African Vacation - Day #6 (12/18)


Today we woke up before 6, had breakfast, packed up the car, and set off for our safari. Today our goal was to see lots of animals in the crater rim of Ngorongoro. We descended down to the bottom of the rim in the safari vehicle. We saw so many emails including:
·      Wildebeest
·      Lion
·      Zebra
·      Hippos
·      Water buffalo
·      Heartabeast
·      Jackels
·      Hyenas
·      Warthog
·      Thompsons gazelle
·      Flamingoes
·      Ostriches
·      Bird of Uganda
·      Baboons
·      Elephants
·      Mongoose
·      Waterbuck
·      Hyenas (babies)

One of the first things we saw was a dead zebra that was just killed by a humongous lion. The lion was sleeping after his fresh kill. Then, we saw a family of lions sleeping next the road. There was a male and two females, which was the minimum number of females in a pride. Our guide told us that there were usually more females per male. Males do not live in the same pride, unless they friends or brothers. We were impressed with the scenery and I think it looked very much like New Zealand. We saw an elephant bone yard, which we think several elephants died there. There were just bones which has been stripped clean. We saw hippos in the lakes and some were sunning themselves. We also saw baby hippos on the shore with their mom. Hippos feed in the morning and then relax during the day before feeding again at night. We had to leave the park by 2:30 because our permit was only good for 24 hours. On our way back up the mountain, we encountered a stranded safari vehicle and picked up a passenger who was from Canada. We dropped her off at her hostel in town.

When we stopped for lunch, some locals told about a emergency plane landing at Arusha airport, which we knew only accepted smaller aircraft. It would be similar to the Spirit of St. Louis airport. We passed the airport on our way back to the hotel and saw the plane. It ran out of runway with just the front wheels in the mud. There were so many people and vehicles parked along the road, which told us it was a major spectacle. Most of the people around had probably not seen a plane that large. We arrived at the safari office, sent some emails, and headed to our lodge. We stayed at the Arusha lodge before going on our safari and booked an additional night there to stay through Friday.

East African Vacation - Day #5 (12/17)


Today we got up very early to start our safari. Apparently the animals are out and about in the morning. I am not sure what time we left, but I know it was around 6. We headed out and immediately saw lions, hippos, and many vultures. The vultures follow the wildebeest herd as the migrate south. Then, we came across a family of leopards with a momma and two cubs. We actually saw the momma kill a gazelle and feed it to her young, which was so cool. After the family of leopards, we came across hyenas and vultures eating a wildebeest. We watched them for a while and then headed for the toilets. As we started our trek to the toilets on a very muddy road, and we actually got stuck at one point and realized we were being surrounded by hyenas. Eventually another safari vehicle pushed us through the mud and we headed to the rest area. After taking a cup of coffee, we headed around the Serengeti to look for more animals. We saw more lions, cheetahs, monkeys, zebras, topi, dik dik, saber cat, golden jackel, ostrich, giraffe, and donkeys. We headed back to the camp for lunch where Silvano made salad, crepes, eggs, toast, rice with meat, etc. Then we packed up and started out journey back across to Ngorongoro Conservation Area. We arrived and immediately noticed the view and cold temperatures. We set up the tents and Silvano headed to the kitchen to make dinner. We had zucchini soup and spaghetti with meat sauce. It was delicious and warm. We had two tents last night, but tonight we decided to share a tent, since it is so cold. Tomorrow is our last day on safari and we are hoping to see rhinos before we head to the hotel.

East African Vacation - Day #4 (12/16)


All pics will be available via FB. 

This morning we started our day at 7:30 with breakfast including a Spanish omelet, toast, pineapple, watermelon, coffee, crepes, watermelon juice, sausages, and condiments. We refueled and headed to Ngorongoro Conservation Area. We visited the Ngorongoro crater and took a panoramic picture. Then, we headed to a Maasai village and was greeted by the chief and the village who sang us a song. It was such a surreal experience. There were about 120-130 people living in that village. We saw the houses and school. The village school was one room with a teacher, chalkboard, and desks similar to those we have in Uganda. The children attend this school until about 10 and then go to a primary school across the mountain. The houses were made of dung and bamboo. The houses were very tiny, like the size of a bathroom. They have two “rooms” in their house, one for male and one for women and children. They also have fire pit inside the house for cooking. They also have a part of the house that is for the animals when they are young. In order to get married, they have to give 20-30 cows to the bride’s family. When the Maasai asked me how many cows I cost, I told him 100 cows. They can have 3-4 wives.

We saw the following animals:
·      Wildebeest
o   Migrate in a single file line
o   Travel with zebras because the zebras always know the way
·      Zebra
o   Brown stripes until the male turns 6 and the female turns 4; then their stripes are black
·      Giraffe
o   Live up to 28 years
o   Gestation period is 14-15 months
·      Ostrich
o   Males are black and white; females are grey
o   Lay 6-8 eggs, incubation period is 42-60 days
o   Males sit on the next at night because he is black and blends into the scenery to protect the eggs
o   Run 80 kph
o   Eat seeds, grass, insects
·      Elephant
·      Camels
·      Baboons
·      Thompson gazelle
·      Lions
o   They mate for 7-8; the mate every 15-20 minutes (we got to see this); They mate every 15-20 min. because the females need friction for stimulation of their ovaries
o   We watched them mate twice!
o   Then, he moves to the next one
o   Live in prides (can be up to 17)
o   Gestation is 3 months
o   Have a new lion every 18-23 months
·      Hippo (dead one)
·      Water buffalos (including a dead one)

After the safari, we headed to camp. Our camp is called Nyani, which means baboon in Swahili. The camp was quite impressive with a huge kitchen area for all of the cooks and a large common area for eating, relaxing, playing cards, etc. There were also showers and toilets with real toilet bowls! We set up our tents and waited for dinner. When we entered the common area, we found our table set up with coffee, tea, and popcorn. Our cook, Silvano, made us leek soup with bread and butter for the first course.The main course was fish, salad, and rice. It was absolutely delicious. After dinner, we chatted with some of the other campers. We met some European guys and shared our safari adventures. I actually slept comfortably for my first night of camping!

East African Vacation - Day #3 (12/15)


All pics will be on fb. 

Today we woke up at 7, ate breakfast, and then we were picked up by our safari driver, Timothy. We went to the safari office to meet Natasha (the owner of Shadows of Africa) and paid for our trip. While at the office, I uploaded my final paper for class and checked mail. I was supposed to submit my paper before I left, but I just didn’t get it done in time. We picked up our cook, Silvanus, who is going to be very important for us once we head into the Serengeti. Then, we made a few stops at the bank, grocery store, etc. and drove for two hours to Lake Manyara National Park. We had box lunches of chicken, sandwiches, yogurt, fruit, cookies, crackers, juice box, boiled egg, and chocolate cakes. We had a feast...with snacks to spare! We saw so many animals today!

·      
     Elephants
  • You can determine the age of an elephant by the number of sets of teeth they have throughout their lifetime.
  • Males don’t live with the females and babies. When they are ready to mate, they find a female.
  • They eat about 170 kg of food per day and poop every 1.25 hours.
  • They pee, a lot! We are talking buckets!
  • They have smaller harems and larger groups.
  • Males can reproduce after age 23.
  • They only digest 40% of what they eat.
  • They lick the calcium from the dirt around the area to help digest food because they eat over a 100 species of vegetation and some of them are toxic. The salt helps their digestion.
o   Zebras
§  The black stripes absorb the heat and the white stripes reflect it.
§  They have an enzyme in their digestive system that allows them to digest even tough vegetation so even in the dry season, they are nourished.
o   Velvet monkeys
§  The males have blue balls – literally – which is how you can tell they are male.
o   Blue monkeys
o   Savannah baboons
§  The red bums mean they are in heat.
§  The Godfathers protects the group of baboons (the oldest member).
§  The females carry babies on their stomachs and backs.
o   Grey headed king fisher
o   Helmeted guinea foul
o   Impala
o   Bushbuck
o   Warthog
§  They kneel on their front legs to eat grass because their bottom lip in lower than the top lip or something with their legs…I can’t remember.
o   Eagle
o   Flamingoes
o   Superb sterling
o   Toucan

I also learned a lot about the Maasai, even enough we don’t see them until tomorrow.
  • There is a market once or twice a week where people get supplies.
  • The Maasai wear bright clothes to ward off predators.
  • A man must kill a lion before taking a wife, but not this has stopped and men give cows for wives.
  • There are no or few schools for the Maasai. Most of the children tend to the herd of animals. They drive them from place to place to eat and drink.
  • Most of the Maasai do not know how to read or write in any language. They do speak in English, but that is because of the tourists around who have taught them.
  • The Maasai are polygamists and take many wives. A man’s worth is judged by the number of wives he has, so the leader of the area had about 12.
  • Women are in charge of getting the food and maintaining the house. Men go from village to village to trade and talk. Our guide said the men were lazy.
  • Most of the Maasai have no religion, although some have become Muslim as of late.

After the park, we arrived at Crater Rim Lodge at 7:30. We were greeted with watermelon juice and hot towels. The room was very nice with three beds and a modern bathroom. There was even a TV, but we didn’t watch it. We ate dinner of vegetable soup, rice, chicken, beef, vegetables, spaghetti, and watermelon. The food was delicious. We tried to access wifi, but to no avail. I actually spent quite a bit of my data to try to post a picture, but they network was not working, so we headed to bed. Our safari driver comes at 8:30 tomorrow morning.

Thursday, December 19, 2013

East African Vacation - Day #2 (12/14)


ALL PICS ON FACEBOOK

This morning I woke at 7 a.m., showered, and headed up to the lodge for breakfast. Before I go on, I need to comment about the shower. Now, I am thankful for hot, piped water at UCU because I really thought I was going to have to shower in a bucket when I planned to come to Africa. But the water pressure in my apartment is less than desired. So, this shower was amazing. It was the best shower I have had in four months! I had coffee and a pancake for breakfast and talked with everyone about the day’s events. There were people from London, Australia, Germany, Netherlands, Canadian, and America. It was so great! I actually met someone at the camp from St. Louis! We checked out about 12 and headed to gift shop to catch our taxi to the bus station. However, the taxi was nearly an hour late and we were freaked out about missing the bus. We were able to catch the bus in time at Silver Spring Hotel and headed from Nairobi to Arusha. We left Nairobi at 2:30 and arrived in Arusha. The drive was paved, but there were a lot of potholes. The bus was like a shuttle bus, so it was smaller than a coach. We stopped at one of the rest areas right before the Tanzanian border and we also received a bottle of water from the bus company. The border area was under construction, so it was muddy, rough drive for about 30 minutes of the ride. We had to go through the border in Kenya and Tanzania. As soon we got out of the bus at the border, we were confronted with Maasai women who were trying to sell things. They would put a bracelet on your arm and say it was a gift. Then, when you come out, they would ask for money for the “gift”. At one point, I remember telling a woman, “don’t touch me” and she backed away. You just have to be as aggressive as they are and they will leave you alone. Kenya was a breeze because we already had a transit visa. We had to walk across the border to Tanzania, but we had a few minutes to take a picture.


When we arrived at the Tanzanian border I asked for a transit visa since I was just passing through on my way to Dubai. The immigration official was not having it. He refused to give me a transit visa at $30 and said I had to pay for a full visa at $100. I argued and argued and argued. At one point the official actually threw my passport back to me and I banged on the glass…whatever! I even said I would just stay in Kenya. He began to ignore me and I said, “Hey! You look at me. When I talk to you, you look at me. If you were in my country, I would give you the respect to look at you in the face when you are speaking to me.” Then, he actually came out from behind the glass and I was able to involve other people in the debate (yeah for community support). I even attempted to shame him by telling everyone I was a poor teacher on a fixed income. He still refused. I even offered to cook dinner for him in America when he comes to visit. He still refused. So, I paid the stupid money and have a visa for Tanzania for 1 year. I am guessing many more trip to Tanzania before next December. Unbeknownst to me, the driver was ready to drive away, but a fellow passenger named Godbless (I know) told him I was still in the office. So, he waited for me, but I delayed our trip at least an hour. We arrived at the pickup point in Arusa SEVEN hours after we left Nairobi. Immediately our driver, Milton, met us and loaded our luggage. He had been waiting at the checkpoint since 7:00. Once Milton picked us up, we stopped at Barclays so that the girls could get cash. Then, we headed to Arusha Travel Lodge, which was adequate. We were shown the room and told about the water heater, towels, dinner, etc. Then, we headed to the restaurant for dinner. We waited a long time for them to actually cook dinner and ate around 11 p.m. The food was delicious and then we drifted off to sleep.

East African Vacation - Day #1 (12/13)


ALL PICS ON FACEBOOK 

The girls left on Wednesday morning, after missing the bus to Nairobi, which is a long story in itself. Apparently we had the wrong check point. Just imagine four people chasing a large, coach bus on motorcycles with luggage in tow. It was insane. I had to wait until final exams were over to meet them, so I flew out on Friday. Moses, our department driver, picked me up at 9:30 and my friend Daniel accompanied us. I had to stop at Orange to add minutes to my cell phone. I arrived at 10:45 in the middle of a drill. I had time to get a pizza, withdraw money, and talk with Lisa, my public affairs officer. Then, I ran out of the embassy before it went on lockdown for 30 minutes. Apparently they do these drills once a month or so.
I arrived at the airport easy and checked in my luggage. This was the first time I had been on this side of the Entebbe airport, so it was a bit of a learning curve. They don’t let you into the gate until about 45 minutes before the flight, so I sat in the holding area and had a Miranda apple soda while surfing the Internet. The flight to Nairobi was smooth and short. They even served a sandwich and fruit on a 45-minute flight! Immigration was easy and Kenya gave me a transit visa for $20. Then, I proceeded through to get my luggage and hired a taxi. The taxis were really nice and I drove through Nairobi in the rain to the Wildebeest Ecocamp where the girls were staying. I was amazed at the development in Kenya, especially the roads. Everything was paved!
I arrived at the camp and it was extremely cold and damp. The guide led me to our tent and I was totally amazed. It looked like a hotel room in a tent. The bathroom was gorgeous. I headed up to the main lodge and found the girls. They were hanging out with a bunch of people from other countries. The first thing I noticed was how amazingly cool this place was with a pool table, flat screen tv, and fast wifi! I was totally stoked. The girls had planned to go to dinner with another guest, Malcolm from Australia, so we hired a driver and headed out to dinner. The place we went was really nice and I had a pretzel with tomato sauce. At dinner, I realized that I was the only American among my new friends. After dinner, we went home and crashed. I slept like the dead.

Wednesday, December 4, 2013

Finals Exams!!

Today I invigilated exams. Yep, INVIGILATED...I didn't even know that word until I moved here. According to Merriam-Webster, to invigilate means to "to keep watch; to supervise students at an examination," which is definitely what I did today. I work for two departments (Foundation Studies and Languages and Literature), so I had to give exams in both departments. Foundation Studies are basically like the prerequisites that we have at home. Exams are given from 9-12 and 2-5. So I helped with Old Testament in the morning and gave my own exams for Curriculum and Course Design and Methods of Teaching II in the afternoon. The exam this morning was for over 300 students. There were about 9 supervisors and it was CRAZY. The students were very used to the procedures because we live in an exam culture. We gave the exam in Nkoyoyo Hall, which is what we use for community workshop. Students had to present their passbooks, which indicates they have paid their tuition. Unlike home, students can pay their tuition up until they take their exams. There are penalties if they pay late, but they can still sit for the exam. Students must have also passed their coursework in order to sit for the exam. 






So the exams come in sealed packages like these. I wrote the exams and delivered them weeks ago to a "restricted" area who took them off of my flash and transferred them to some super secret system.

We also got paid for invigilating exams at a rate of SHS6500, which is about $2.50. So, I made $5 for 6 hours of work!








Students write their answers in these answer booklets, which are called "scripts." I only have about 80 scripts to grade, so I volunteered to take some for colleagues. Many of their classes are 80+ and they often have 4 or 5 sections. I have less than 20 in most of my classes...yes, I am spoiled. Hopefully, I can build some commodore by helping them. I love the Foundations Dept. and they are very sweet and loving to me. I was amazed at the way everyone came together and helped today. It was like a well-oiled machine. I have two more exams tomorrow and one on Saturday. Then, the count down for vacation begins!!



Central America - Days 14 & 15 (Monteverde to Fortuna, Costa Rica)

On Tuesday, we left around 7:15 a.m. to drive to Arsenal Lake to catch our boat across the lake over to Fortuna. The boat ride was about 45 ...